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ediana

São Miguel dos Milagres, the hidden paradise in Brazil

We all have dreamed about the perfect beach paradise where the water is warm and emerald color, with countless palm trees, reef-formed swimming pools, and the best of all, free of crowds. This place exists and is located in São Miguel dos Milagres, in the state of Alagoas.

The state of Alagoas is famous for it’s pristine, long-stretched beaches and tropical waters, but São Miguel dos Milagres stands out from all the beautiful beaches in Alagoas. Part of the magic of São Miguel is because is a hidden paradise, hidden even for Brazilians. That will for sure change in the coming years, if you can you should visit this paradise now while is still untouched by mass tourism. For now, you can walk for miles along the coast and find a half dozen of people enjoying this paradise.

The combination of beauty and tranquilo lifestyle is what makes this place so special. Because of the coral reefs, you will either have a long stretch of natural swimming pools or a quite ocean where you can swim for 3 miles and the water level will still be on your shoulder. Here there is no hurry to leave the beach before the sunset, the water temperature is very pleasant at night as well.

When to go

The Brazilian northeast is a region that it’s recommended pretty much all year around. Like every tropical area, it’s always summer, and you will find only two seasons, which are dry and rain. The raining season is from May to July, but the showers isolated and may last a couple of hours. High season is from December to February, and prices are much higher during this period. September and October are recommended if you are looking for great deals.

 

How to get there

The best way to get to São Miguel dos Milagres is though Maceió airport, from there you can rent a car or hire a private transfer to your hotel. The distance from the airport to the beach is 103 KM (64 miles), around 1h and 45min if you drive on AL-101.

The second option is to fly to Recife and then drive to São Miguel dos Milagres. The ride is almost twice as longer than Maceió, but somewhat a more scenic route, as you will drive along the coastline.

While planning our trip to São Miguel dos Milagres, we debated if you should hire a private transfer or to rent a car. After analyzing the pros and cons of each option, we decided to choose the transfer. The price between both options was the same, so we decided to have the convenience of a local driver, which was in my opinion, the best option. Betô, our driver gave us several tips about the area and even stopped along the way for us the buy a hammock.

Maceió is much smaller airport compared to Recife, a number of flights landing in Recife are almost twice as more in REC. Due to our international flight schedule, we decided to arrive in MCZ but departure from REC. It was a great opportunity to get to see different scenarios during our airport transfer, but I only recommend choosing the longest route if makes sense for your flight schedule.

The highway from Maceió airport to São Miguel dos Milagres is currently undergoing a duplication project, you will bypass several trucks that are working on the road and trucks loaded with sugarcane crops. A small part of the highway (approx 6km) is unpaved, which may cause a little traffic. On the other hand, on your way to Recife, you won’t see as many trucks, but you will pass through some small towns, which requires a low speed.

 

Bike ride in São Miguel dos Milagres is great option during the low tide

Bike ride in São Miguel dos Milagres is great option during the low tide

Getting Around

São Miguel dos Milagres is a place to relax, the lifestyle at the city will discourage you from getting in the car every day to do a tour. The magic about this place is that you can choose to do nothing, and not feel guilty about it.

Our pousada had a great infrastructure, there was no need to leave your hotel. But I am an explorer, I like to meet the local shops and restaurants, and it was easy to visit the area by bike or walk along the beach. A bike ride along the shore is a must do in São Miguel dos Milagres, during the low tide, the sand is very firm and great for bikes. Most pousadas offer complimentary bikes for guests, don’t forget to ask your hotel if this service is available before making the reservation.

We chose one day to visit the beaches nearby, and for that, we decided to hire a buggy. Our buggy tour cost R$300 had a duration of 3 hours and pass along Patacho Beach, Lages Beach, Porto das Pedras, and one local craft store. To be honest, there was nothing special about the tour, all beaches are pretty and pretty much the same. The only differential was the idea of riding in a buggy. It’s important to mention that most cities in Brazil you can ride the buggy on the beach, but not in São Miguel dos Milagres. Due to the ecotourism rules, buggies are not allowed in the sand.

Where to stay

São Miguel dos Milagres region has several options for accommodation, and the hotels play a huge roll on your stay, for that reason, I decided to write a separate post about accommodation.

 

Restaurant in São Miguel dos Milagres

Restaurant in São Miguel dos Milagres

Where and what to eat

Most pousadas offer a half board option, where you have breakfast and 1 meal included. The meal can be either lunch or dinner. Usually, dessert and appetizers are not included on the half board. The food at our pousada was great, you barely visit the restaurants nearby. If you decide to explore the area you can choose the local restaurants nearby or make a reservation to dine at one of the hotels. Most pousadas open the doors for the non-guests, as long as the hotel is not fully booked.

Local bar and restaurants are very simple (nothing luxurious). Service is always great, but language barrier will definitely be an issue as most people don’t speak English in the village. For a casual beach front lunch, “Restaurante do Enildo” is great option.

While in Alagoas, you must try some of the local culinary. Like most beaches in Brazil, seafood is always the main ingredient. Here you will also find a lot of seafood but with a little tropical twist, such as fish and coconut, shrimp and mango, octopus and banana puré. Moqueca is a famous dish as well as coalho cheese tapiocas and fresh fruit caipirinhas.

 

São Miguel dos Milagres has a long stretch of natural swimming pools

Things to do/visit

A nonprofits organization in partnership with the local fisherman offers tours to see the wild manatees reservation. It’s a well-known ecological preservation project in Alagoas. The tours can be scheduled by your pousada, but they also accept walk-ins at their office located in the little downtown.

Just keep in mind that cell phone coverage isn’t great in São Miguel, as the village is quite remote. If you chose to buy a Brazilian SIM Card, the only two operators that work in the village are TIM and Claro. All pousadas offer wifi, but it can be quite slow depending on the time of the day.

November 17, 2016 by

Renaissance São Paulo, my favorite hotel in Jardins

When visiting São Paulo, I usually like to stay in Jardins. To me is the perfect neighborhood for someone that is looking for a great and quiet location. My favorite hotels in Jardins are the Mercure Jardins when I’m on a small budget and Renaissance São Paulo when I’m looking for a splurge.

The Renaissance is located one block from Avenida Paulista (the most famous street in São Paulo) and the subway station. You also have several good restaurants and stores nearby. If you are looking for a casual drink or late night snack, Augusta Avenue is your best bet.

My favorite spot in the area is the La Bella Pães e Doces, located 300 meters (328 yards) from the hotel. La Bella is a bakery, but there are so many things that look like a small grocery store. This is a great place to eat breakfast or a snack.

The hotel decor and architecture is great, but my favorite detail about this property is the service. On my first night at the hotel, I requested room service, and there was a small mistake about my order. I called the room service department and they went above and beyond to solve the issue right away, as an apology the dish was complimentary.

I also had a great experience with the concierge. I was traveling to São Paulo for a birthday party, and I called the hotel in advance to request suggestions about a hair salon in the area. Celso, the concierge, recommend me an awesome hairdresser and makeup artists nearby. I was so pleased with his recommendation that I still go to this same salon every time I’m in town.

As we know, the most important things in a hotel are the bed and shower. As we expect, the bed at the Renaissance is very comfortable. The standard rooms have a lot of desk space for working and great view (you get a higher floor). What I really like is the fact they provide outlet converter for all rooms, you don’t need to call the front desk to ask for one. The bathroom is almost as big as the bedroom, they have a large Jacuzzi and double sinks. The only the negative about the bathroom is the water pressure for the standing shower.

The breakfast at the hotel is great, but for the Brazilian standards, I would expect more for a luxury hotel. There is definitely room for improvement. If breakfast is not included in my rate, I usually skip the breakfast at this hotel and go get a small bite to eat at a local bakery or juice bar in the area. I would eat at the hotel only if I’m too tired or running late. Sometimes this hotel has promotions with Visa or weekend sales, where breakfast is included.

October 13, 2016 by

Why did I fall in love with São Paulo?

São Paulo is the largest city in the Americas by population, and it can be a little overwhelming sometimes, that’s why a lot of people see São Paulo as a business destination rather than leisure.

I need to be honest, growing up in Brazil I never felt in love for São Paulo, until I had the chance to experience São Paulo as a local. Like many Brazilians (and foreigners too), I would choose Rio de Janeiro over São Paulo easily. São Paulo was just too chaotic and crazy, in my mind, there was no way I could enjoy that city for leisure. But during on my few trips to São Paulo, I had the chance to see the city in a different way, and all the suddenly São Paulo become “SAMPA” to me.

Sampa is a nickname for São Paulo, but more than a nickname is the opportunity visitors can express if they like or not the city. If you are a tourist just passing by, or if you are here for business, the city is just São Paulo to you. But if you got the chance to embrace the city, to explore the hidden secrets and the bohemia, you then have received the permission to call it Sampa!

I heard once from Anthony Bourdain, that you would have a better experience in São Paulo if you know someone to show you the city as a local, otherwise, you won’t truly enjoy it. I couldn’t agree more with him; to experience the city as local is what would differ you from leaving São Paulo or Sampa at the end of your trip.

The good new is that you are in Brazil, and the Brazilian hospitality will make you feel you have a friend anywhere you go. The waiter will make you feel like a friend, the doorman, the taxi driver… ooops, maybe not “always” for the taxi driver ☺

I have to say that this place is not for everyone, some people even after experience the city as local will still prefer Rio over São Paulo. In my case, I had to move to the States, and miss my home country, culture and food to then appreciate what this city has to offer.

After 7 years living abroad, I returned to São Paulo and had the opportunity to see the city as half gringo and half Brazilian. My perspective as a tourist in São Paulo changed. The expensive international restaurants and shopping malls would make it on my to-do list anymore. I trade all to a “pé sujo bar” or “boteco”, that’s how Brazilians call the average bar with inexpensive drinks and appetizers – São Paulo has several options for boteco, and they are now the place to be in the city. There you will find people of all ages and tribes.

I also wouldn’t think twice about crossing the entire city to find the best “coxinha” or driving miles to try the best “feijoada” in town. On that exactly moment I discovered Sampa, a chaotic city, but full of energy and opportunities to embrace the Brazilian culture.

Are you curious to know how you can experience the city as local and which places you should visit? Check it out this post where I mention the 10 ways to experience São Paulo as a local. I hope you will land in São Paulo, then fall in love for this amazing city and leave São Paulo Sampa with a desire to come back!

October 13, 2016 by